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Shore power was restored on July 24th and just in time, some people were getting rather cranky, not mentioning any names, but smiles and laughter have returned to the docks.  And the rain has let up.  The river level has lowered 2 ft or more, so it is easier now getting on and off our boat.  During the day, temps are 90+ but it does cool down at night enough so that sleeping with a fan on is comfortable.

We have now adjusted to marina life which is quite different than being out at anchor where privacy is your own, researching the next island, swimming, snorkeling, enjoying fresh fish, lobster or crab and deck showers.  Now, it's shower ashore, don't eat the river fish, definitely don't swim in the river, but it's poolside every afternoon, and we have met new friends that are just as crazy as we are.
We have started a horseshoe tourney every Sunday at 1pm.  The competition is fierce.

The day after we arrived, we were asked to join the group going to the Mayan Day Festival, a traditional ceremony, called the Dancing of the Deer" celebrated every spring equinox. At 830am, we took a launcha, a motorboat, down the river and up a winding creek, where the village exists.  Walking down a narrow pathway, you then enter an open field where the Mission stands.  The dance had already began by the time we arrived. The Mayan dancers were dressed in elaborate and colorful costumes; some were animals like deer, panthers and jaguars, and others were the Spanish conquistadors.

The Mayan believe that the animals protect them and feel one with these animals.  The Spanish Conquistadors came in the 16th century, and conquered this area.   The dance is a celebration to the Mayan survivors and lasted over 2 hours.  If you took a picture of them, you were asked politely for a tip that goes to support the village.  Other surrounding Mayan villages also came to participate in the festivities.

Lunch was served offering traditional Mayan dishes such as the KuKuk, a soup with a turkey leg and vegetables, grilled fish wrapped in banana leaves with tomatoes and onions. Or for the gringos who cared not to expand their taste buds, there was pizza.

After lunch, it was time to head back to the launcha for the ride back to Mario's.

SHOPPING DAY IN FRONTERAS

Going to town to resupply is quite the experience.  Our first trip was with Thayne, who showed us where the best places were to buy fresh vegetables, meat, liquor and the bank with the best exchange rate.  Fronteras is a 10 minute dinghy ride away up river and as you go you pass the locals in their homemade cayucos fishing. There is a 90' bridge that was built in the 1980's that spans the river and is the main north-south highway on which Fronteras is situated.  The main strip of businesses is about a mile long along the highway, so it is very very busy with traffic, such as semi-trucks, cattle trucks, tour buses, chicken buses, minivans, tuk tuks, and other cars, bicycles, and pedestrians.  As you walk down the street, there are local vendors selling items like fresh vegetables (the freshest and healthiest veggies we have seen), fried chicken or chinchorros (fried pork skins), fresh tortillas, and herbs.  There are blue and grey tarps and tin roofs above the stands, and the hustle and bustle of Wal-Mart seems like a walk in the park, compared to this chaotic scene.

Buying what you need requires several stops. No one stop shopping here!  Negotiating with the veggie vendors we have discovered that there is a gringo price and a local price.  But it is still cheap. $1 US = 7.5 Quetzales. So, a pineapple is 5Q = .65 cents., a watermelon or cantaloupe is 10Q or $1.33 each.  Buying meat is a challenge.  The Pollo Lio sells fresh whole chickens (they are yellow, don't know why) for approx. 80 cents a pound.  Beef here doesn't come close to Kansas beef, but lean beef strips and hamburger is available.  Lots of pork: bacon is the best we've had in a long time, comparable to bacon sold back in the 1950's, and the 2" thick pork chops are delicious  Of course, don't eat the fish, but we did try the  large freshwater shrimp sold whole for $3 lb.

The produce trucks arrive on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and first thing on Saturday morning is the best time to buy the freshest produce usually. There are armed guards standing by the delivery trucks. The dispenseria (small grocery store) has a limited supply but you can buy a whole rotisserie chicken for 38Q. Miriam's and Ingrid's sell a little bit of everything with Miriam's having the best price usually.  Other tiendas (stores) lining the street sell clothes, feed, appliances, telephones, and even a marine supply store. When buying anything, speaking Spanish is a must, and the art of negotiating is an art form.  Gringos just aren't used to this way of buying things, so it takes awhile to catch on and feel comfortable with it, if ever!  You are able to walk into the (pharmacy) and asked for any kind of antibiotic or other medications without a prescription!
Of course, only drink bottled water and wash all veggies in a bleach solution and air dry to avoid getting sick.
Living here is different than the states, less conveniences, less selection, less stress, less time constraints, but as they say, less is more.

COPAN, HONDURAS TRIP

On July 11, joined by Tom on Liberty from southern California and Mike and Theresa on Blue Moon from the Sacramento area, we traveled to Copan Honduras, 120 miles away, by renting a minivan with a chauffeur, in order for us to sample the rum and beer, seeing on the way many fields planted with pineapples, bananas, sugarcane, and lots of stands selling bundles of lena, (firewood).  The road  has a lot of traffic, but it is paved and smooth but no shoulder to speak of, and those crazy truck drivers pass on hills or curves.  Being an experienced Guatemalan driver means you own "Big Cojones".  We arrived safely, and upon entering Copan, the streets were cobble stoned and a bit bumpy.  We were dropped off at the village square, where we were unexpectantly  met by Kimberly, a PeaceCorp.volunteer from Iowa, who gave us suggestions as to where to stay and restaurants to check out.  We walked a block and checked into La Posada, where a room with two twin beds, TV with HBO, bathroom and shower, with hot water, free coffee and agua pura, all for only $20/night.  Copan is a very clean little town, set atop of a hill overlooking fields of coffee beans growing in the valleys, and  mountains all around, with a beautifully landscaped square in the center.  Needing to stretch our legs and quench our thirst, we walked around getting ourselves acquainted, browsing tiendas, admiring the jewelry laid out on blankets on the sidewalks made by locals, and enjoyed happy hour at Twisted Tanya, that so happened to be owned by Garrett, a New Yorker, who has since lost most of his accent living here the last 7 years with his wife, Tanya..  As 70's music played in the background, (Donna Summer), sipping 2 for 1 drinks, we relaxed and continued " Stayin Alive".  The next day, we hailed a tuk tuk, a three wheeled taxi, to take us to the ruins, where we hired Juan, a  native tour guide who spoke very good English  and for the next two hours, he educated us about the Mayans who once lived here, 400-800AD.  At the entrance, five macaws, the Honduran national bird, greeted us perched on top of the fence. 

   This site has five areas of interest, The Ball Court, a sport played with a 9lb leather ball similar to soccer, but unlike soccer, the MVP was given the honor of being sacrificed.  The Mayans were big on this sacrificial rite, believing that the Gods would be more favorable to them.  The Great Plaza has many stelaes and altars scattered around the beautiful green lawn, some dating back to the 13th ruler, known as 18 Rabbit between the years 711 and 736.

 The Copan dynasty had 16 rulers in all, but only the last 6 are well documented.  Much of the earlier temples were destroyed over time, and other artifacts were obliterated by the Spaniards.  The Hieroglyphic Stairway is the longest text left and still being deciphered by archeologists today.  It was erected by ruler Smoke Shell and is believed to be a lineage tree, recording the ascension and death of all Copan rulers.  The Acropolis is divided between the east and west court, where temples of the rulers were built.  Under the largest temple which represents a Mayan hundred foot pyramid, they discovered thru tunneling underneath, an ancient temple, known as the Rosa Lila, (Temple of the Sun), completely intact and well preserved with the newer temple suspended over it.  A replica is housed in the Museum of Mayan Sculpture, adjacent to the site. 

The stelaes are unique to this southern region, and not found at Chichen Itza Mexico and other northern Mayan ruins.  The carvings here were much more intricate, detailed and possess a zoomorphic form.

The museum of Mayan Sculpture houses the more important stelaes and sculptures found at this site.  You enter thru a tunnel, a replica of the tunnel at Rosa Lila Temple, and once inside it opens up into this huge open space with two floors and the replica of the Rosa Lila Temple in the center.  All around the sides then are various Mayan sculptures on display each having a plaque describing the piece.

After an exhausting day of touring, it was time to seek out happy hour, something we are very good at.  After several bar stops, it was time for dinner at Llama Del Bosque, which came highly recommended.  We ordered the house specialty, a complete dinner starting with an appetizer, beans and chips brought to us by our waitress on top of her head, the Mayan way.  Next came the grilled chicken, beef and pork accompanied with salad, beets, rice, vegetables, tortillas and dessert.  All this for 100 lempiras each.  19 lempiras = $1 US

The next morning, we walked a mile out of town  to the Nature Center, a butterfly house and an orchid room.  We met Robert and his wife, Maria, who are part owners, and Robert is a native California who 13 years ago came here while in the Peace Corp.  He has done a marvelous job here and his passion for  these butterflies and orchids shows through his hard work and dedication.  Arriving there at 8am, we were first given a lecture and shown the progression of the butterfly life.  Beginning with the larvae, eggs and cocoons. Then with the plastic identification card in hand, entered the butterfly house that was completely screened in, of course.

  Following a nature trail, Robert led us to the orchid hothouse, where over 125 different species were displayed in various pots and hanging boxes.  We learned that orchids are not parasites because they do not rob from their host.  Unfortunately, only one orchid was blooming and that was the Honduras national flower. Very proudly,  Robert showed his orchid that he discovered and will carry his name once it is verified.

We concluded our trip by enjoying a huge breakfast at Cafe Via, then prepared and waited for our van and chauffeur to show up at noon.  Amazingly, the ride back only took 3 1/2 hrs, less stops since we were all very tired.  It was a fun and educational 3 day visit and we look forward to seeing other beautiful places as we travel to Antigua and Lake Atitlan in the month of August

POSTER IN ONE OF THE BARS WE VISITED;

TRANSLATION: 

LIFE IS SHORT, SO ENJOY YOURSELF!