Back to home page

Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake in the day to find that it was vanity: but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dream with open eyes, to make it possible.    T. E. Lawrence "Seven Pillars of Wisdom"

August 10, 2007   Bocas Pocas

No magic has been performed for we are still here in the Bocas area!  But, it was like magic how all the stuff that we had bought in the states, once aboard just slowly disappeared as each item was stowed away properly.

Being away for over five weeks, there was alot of cleaning to be done.  All the woodwork had to be wiped down with a solution of vinegar and water for a layer of mold had settled on practically everything! (note to self:  It would of been nice to have a dehumidifier running while we were gone.)

It was good to be back at home, around the water, to catch up with our friends and eventually the peaceful restful part of our souls came back into play.

Once out at anchor, for we left the marina life two days after we returned, (we slept for most of those two days!) we found out that the alternator on the engine had quit working.  Aaron replaced it with one of our spares, only to discover that it didn't work either.  So, he replaced it again with another spare, which does work.  Now, we needed to find someone who could rebuild our two alternators which we need as spares.  It's not like we can pick up the phonebook and call someone.  It is all done by word of mouth, which after asking Chuck, the marina manager, he told us of a guy over in Changinola that could do the job.  So, we hired Kevin, a local, to take the alternators over to Changinola and take them to this Mr. Alternator Fixit Guy who repaired them that same day.  Kevin called us on the VHF radio later that afternoon to come into Bocas town and pick up our alternators.  What service, huh? For the price of $80.00.  Now, let's just hope they work when we need them!

While Aaron was busy with replacing alternators, Kaija and I went into town and hailed a taxi to take us to the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute.  On Fridays, they have an open house where the admission is free and a tour is given. 

The Smithsonian has been in Panama since the canal began under America ownership, doing research involving the diseases that inflicted the workers.  Many workers died with malaria and yellow fever and until these diseases were diagnosed and conquered, which was no small feat, that the progress on the canal went forward. (the book "The Path Between the Seas" by David McCullough, is a must read for anyone but mostly to those who are traveling this area and transiting the canal).  But the facility here has only been open for four years and our guide, Marlon, has been the tour guide from the start.

Marlon, who has a passion for the outdoors and its beauty, explained to us as we walked thru the grounds, what each plant was named, and proudly showed us the flowering croton, which had not bloomed in 30 years.  The research building overlooked a small lagoon where a tropical bird was nesting with its little chicks.  Marlon explained that it was the male that looked after the chicks mostly after they were born.  Talk about role reversals!  In this building is where the researchers do all their tropical clinical studies on things such as coral and why some kinds are dying at a faster rate, while others are stabilizing, the reason frogs are different colors, (red, green, yellow and blue: they believe it is a defense mechanism) and the importance of mangroves.  Each one of these is in trouble:  The increase in human life in the area has been a major factor as well as the pollution that comes along in conjunction with the waterside development that decreases the numbers of mangroves. Note to everyone:  We are all connected and need to protect the wildlife in which we live before it is too late.

Under the open canopy, were a few aquariums that housed lobster, conch, starfish and brittle stars.    In tub basins that fresh or salt water ran through, we were able to touch a starfish and a sea cucumber. 

As we walked out onto the docks, Marlon educated us on the different types of mangroves, red, white and black.  Red is the most common around here and there roots are a natural habitat for fish to breed.  Overlooking the small bay area, there is a weather station anchored in the middle, giving the researchers the current weather statistics.

It was a delightful tour and it was good to meet Marlon, who has grown up here, with his positive outlook on life, with his desire to learn as much as he can everyday,  I'd say it was time well spent.

Much of my days have been spent writing.  My old computer is back up and running again, and so my task and goal is to get the website updated before leaving.  Since it has been over three months since my last update, I was thrilled to discover that it all came back to me quickly and easily even the writing.  For that I am grateful.  Maybe it was good to have an extended break, no?

August 16, 2007    Engine is bad, mon!

Aaron after successfully installing an alternator that does work, tried out his new HUKA system for cleaning the bottom of the boat.  It is a small 110 unit with a 30ft hose attached and at the end of the hose is the regulator for breathing underwater.  In about an hour, he had it all done.  But, since it had been awhile since the last time, the barnacles and growth were thick in some areas, like the propeller and the keel.  It is important to have a clean bottom! It makes the boat sail more efficiently and faster.

Our Yamaha 25hp outboard engine hasn't been running properly lately, it makes a strange sound, so we called Eddie, the best mechanic in town, and dinghied over to his shop which is right on the water.   The shop is a little shack on stilts that houses all of his parts and tools.  Eddie, a local with the accent of the islands, tells us as we motor in towards his shop, "your engine is bad mon, bad inside mon, bad mon", as he shakes his head side to side.  Not good news to hear. Eddie proceeds to tell us that, since our engine is an American one, parts are hard to come by.  Maybe 3 weeks wait to get parts from the states.  If we baby the motor it might last a little bit longer, don't run it full blast.  That is hard for Aaron to do, but a new motor will set us back $3000, so that is not an option.  Eddie says he has a used Yamaha 15hp for $600.  Decision time. 

August 21, 2007   A little excursion is good for the soul

Well, this past week we have been asking around to see if there is another outboard motor to buy and came across a used 25hp Yamaha that has been sitting for awhile.  We went to check it out and met Christian, the owner of the boatyard and Eddie the mechanic.  After going out for a test drive, with the motor on our dinghy, the motor didn't perform up to our standards, so we are back to square one. 

On the other hand,  I have been in "computer hell".  Our old laptop, after having the mother board replaced while we were back in the states, shows that the screen is now changing colors, so it is just a matter of time before it doesn't work.  And the new computer we bought is blue screening and crashing.  I have never experienced this phenomenon before, but know it is serious and decide to get help from the HP chat line.  This is an online help service thru Hewlett Packard, and by typing messages on the computer, we can communicate with a "techno geek guy who knows all about computers".  I chat with Richard who says that I need to make a recovery disk and then set the computer back to factory default settings and sends me all the directions on how to do this.  Frustratingly, it takes me all day to do the recovery disk.  It was just one problema after another and I am far from being a computer geek, but I am learning as I go.  I forego the next step of setting it to default settings, as I have to make sure that I have copied everything I need to an external hard drive.  All my pictures, Airmail addresses, frontpage data, etc.

  So, we decide to take a break from Bocas.  We were invited by Marcia to come out to the Darklands and anchor out there and hang out for a couple of days.  Darkland Bay is another bay just west of Dolphin Bay about 12 miles from Bocas.  On a typical day in Panama, that is, cloudy, 85 degrees with a chance for rain, we motor the 2 1/2 hrs there with our sun awning still up to a beautiful spot and set anchor close to where Island Spirit is anchored.  Island Spirit, a 45ft. trawler, is owned by Jim and his good friend Dorothy.  Marcia works for Jim, who also owns property here and is building a house on the bay.  We take a walking tour of the property with Dorothy, while Jim and Marcia work on cleaning and organizing Island Spirit.  We meet Calvin, who is the construction manager, and he names the different trees and plants that grow here.  Ronbutons, also called mamachinos, are an edible fruit, which are in season.  They are a part of the lichee species, round and spindly, you split it in half, pop out the white round ball into your mouth and being careful of the pit in the middle, you enjoy nature's treat. The red ones are sweeter than the yellow kind which are a bit more tangier. 

Onboard Island Spirit, we lend a hand and help out moving boxes out of storage areas; it just made the journey from Ft. Lauderdale and is full of supplies.  Showers are offered onboard Blow Me Away, since Jim's watermaker is not working.  Then, we enjoy a wonderful evening, good conversation, many laughs, over dinner, steak and fish, and drinks aboard Island Spirit.

The next day, Aaron and Jim figure out the watermaker problem.  A leak in the strainer is replaced by a new one and the water tanks begin to fill.  While the men are at work, the girls dinghy over to Cindy and Ron's home, just around the corner, and learn how to play Mah Jong, a chinese game. Cindy and Ron built their home, a circular structure right on the water, with lots of windows to let the breeze blow thru.  Mary on s/v Kamrika joins us too.  So, with Cindy as instructor, Marcia, Dorothy, Mary and I sit around the kitchen table and learn this fascinating game.  This antique set was Cindy's mothers, made originally in China.  All the pieces are either marked by numbers or pictures.  Cindy prepared a cheat sheet for each of us, because learning the chinese characters for numbers is challenging as well as remembering what the pictures stand for.  Scoring seems to be difficult to learn (no cheat sheet given for that!)  We play all afternoon and each of us wins a round.  It's a nice way to spend some time.

We take leave of Mah Jonging it, and bade farewell to Cindy and Ron and Mary.

We enjoy another wonderful dinner aboard Island Spirit.  Marcia and Dorothy whip up some great kabobs for the grill, we contribute a couple of ribeyes and Aaron takes to the grillin.  What a feast! 

August 23, 2007    It's Almirante time!

At noon, we say our farewells to Jim and Dorothy and Marcia joins us aboard for the trip back to Bocas, but before we head there, we need to stop in Almirante for fuel.  Fuel is $2.90/gal, 30 cents cheaper than the Bocas area.  Marcia points out different property owned by friends of her's, the restaurant that  everyone goes to for Sunday Brunch, (we are not "everyone" since we didn't even know about it!) and Shepard Island, where Ed, on s/v Quixotic, is building a home on his property.  The port of Almirante is Dole Chiquita Banana territory.  A huge container ship filled with bananas and plantains leaves here every other day.  As we pass this ship by, we are told to stop by a boat with official looking people in it.  It is the port captain from Bocas and she is not happy with us.  We are told that we needed permission from her to go here, so that she could let the port Captain here in Almirante know that we would be coming.    Aaron explained that we were in the Darklands and decided on the last minute to get fuel.   We beg forgiveness for our ignorance and she lets us go with a slap on the hand.  But next time..........

The Texaco fuel dock is a concrete dock with many guys just standing around watching us.  We place our fenders out, and have our bow, spring, and stern lines ready and receive assistance as we slowly make our approach.  After we have successfully landed, the fuel guy tells us in Spanish of course, that the hose will not reach so we have to turn the boat around.  So, we motor out, switch the fenders and lines to the port side and again tie up. As we are fueling, the Almirante Port Captain, named Cesar, introduces himself and speaks very good English. He asks us for our boat papers.  We again, apologize for our ignorance and since the papers are all okay, he says no problem and welcomes us to Almirante.  Nice El Capitan!  We take our gasoline jerry jugs up to the fuel station, but are told there is no gasoline today, possibly manana.  It's always manana!

After fueling, we motor back to Shepard Island and slip on to Ed's mooring ball.  We take the dinghy then to the dock that Ed has built and upon landing are greeted by Francis, the caretaker.  Marcia then starts saying Kazoo Kazoo where are you?  Kazoo is a toucan that was given to Ed and Marcia by a local, when Kazoo was a baby and they have taken care of it since then.  Kazoo is up in a tree watching us. Marcia explains that it has been several weeks since she was last here since Ed is back in the states.  Kazoo used to come right up to her but now he is playing hard to get.  She takes us on a tour of the place, and what a beautiful place it is.  The caretaker's home is situated closer to the water and this is where Francis brings Kazoo to us so we can see him up close.  Francis is Kazoo's best friend now and hangs out with him.  Kazoo is 3 months old now and he is getting color on his beak.  He is so cute.  Marcia feeds him papaya and he warms up to her a little.

 We take the path on up to Ed's home, which overlooks the bay.  The hike up the hill is good exercise and the reward is a gorgeous view.  His home, 3 years in the making, is made of three local woods.  I can't remember the names but the carpentry work is absolutely beautiful.  

The sun is starting to set so we hustle on down the hill and out to the mothership and in an hour's time we are safely back at anchor in Bocas. 

 August 28, 2007   Happy #7 Birthday Chase,our grandson

Today we have to make the trip across the bay to the town of Changinola to extend our tourist visa. We take the water taxi which takes about an hour.  Upon entering Panama,  you receive a 30 day visa then you must return to the immigration office and extend it for another 60 days. After being in Panama for 90 days, you have to leave the country for 3 days before re-entering and starting the process over.   The other option is a mariner's visa, for cruisers, which allows you to stay without leaving but you have to check into immigration every 30 days.  We have made the decision to just extend our visa for now and with all of our official papers, we enter the immigration office and meet Benita, a very happy and polite woman who processes our visas while constantly being interupted by other office workers, or family, or friends who are needing their immigration papers as well.  It's amazing she can keep it all straight, but she does. And in the record time of 2 1/2 hours, and $32.00 later,  we are done.  We catch the 3:00pm water taxi ride back to Bocas.

 August 30, 2007    Biting the bullet as they say

Our outboard is not going to make it much longer.  So, since we haven't had any luck finding a good used one, we bite the bullet and research prices on buying a brand new one.  The best price is at the marine store in town.  A new Yamaha 25hp Enduro costs $2400 delivered here to Bocas.  Out goes the credit card and we commit ourselves.  It will be here on Saturday.

It's back to the battle with the computer.  I managed to restore it back to factory default settings, that was the easy part.  Now, I have to download all the programs again which is calling on all the patience I have.  I thought I had alot, but the computer is winning this battle.  My last three days have been spent at the bar called "Bohmfalks".  I think it is a most appropriate name and since they offer free WI-FI, and when my patience wears out,  a rum and club soda is close by.  I first had to download ALL the updates to windows which was an entire day.  The second day was spent with Trend Micro, our anti virus software program, and it will not download properly.  Gary on Kaija's Song comes by and gives me a few pointers, but it still is not responding.  So, I send Trend Micro an email and ask for help.  I am getting good at asking for help!  This new computer has the Windows Vista program not Windows XP and boy, I sure wish we had XP.  Vista is problematic since it is so new alot of the programs will not work until you have downloaded a special update made especially for Vista.  Plus Vista has alot of security features which XP does not.  It is good in one way, but some things take longer to process.  And I am making sure that I make system restore points before and after downloading any software, just in case something should happen. On my third day at the bar, I now know the waitress and the bartender and the owners since I have been a barfly lately.  I spend this day downloading the Airmail program, which is what I use to communicate by emails thru our Single Side Band radio.  We are very happy with it.  And since I earned my HAM liscense before we started cruising, this is a free service.  If you do not have a HAM liscense, then Sailmail is the way to go, but the fee is $250/yr. Trend Micro hasn't answered my email yet, so I am at an impasse.  Did someone say it is time for happy hour?