December 2, 2009  Water and Oil Do Not Mix

We slept really well, 10 hours worth, and feel refreshed.  We decide to make the trip to Cartagena to see our good friend Pam on s/v Glide before she flies back to New York tomorrow.  Aaron checks the oil level in the main engine and discovers that there is a small amount of water. OH NO.  This is bad news.  Lenny comes over to investigate and since it is such a small amount, the boys are in agreement that it won't hurt to motor on to Cartagena and get it fixed there.  It's only 20 more miles, calm conditions, and as we enter the Boca Chica channel, which once was guarded by forts on each side, a huge freighter makes his way out into the sea.  We wait until he has cleared the channel and make our entry, checking in with the Port Captain on VHF 16 announcing our arrival.  And then, the radio chatter began as old friends welcomed us back to Cartagena, especially s/v Glide with Pam and Denis onboard.  Club Nautico marina and the surrounding anchorage is located 5 miles further and as we approach there are so many boats at anchor, more than we have ever seen.  We set anchor and begin the celebratory mimosas and brunch with Pam and Denis.  It's great to see them again.  After living in the islands for the past eight months, it's rather overwhelming to be back among city dwellers with traffic, blaring horns, skyscrapers, waiting lines at the grocery checkout and ATM's, and worst of all,  wearing shoes!  On the other hand, it's nice to be able to go out to eat, having a real grocery store nearby, internet access from the boat and the ability to take long walks. 

Happy Holidays Everyone!

December 3rd   Finding the Problem

What is boat life without projects?  We have a list of them, but today's main concern is finding the culprit of why we have water in our main engine.  Aaron checked it this morning, and there is more water than before.  He quickly gets to changing the oil and during the process discovers that the oil cooler may be the problem.  He removes the cooler and we head by taxi to the Palace of Radiators on Pedro Heredia.  As soon as we enter the open air building, Mr. Friendly Radiator Man quickly begins to clean the cooler with muriatic acid.  Then he welds back on the fitting that Aaron accidently broke in removal, pressure tests the cooler, and finds three leaks.  He welds the leaks shut and in the span of 1 1/2 hours, and 70,000 pesos later ($35.00), we are headed back home.  Re-installation is tomorrow's project. 

December 4th thru the 7th

  Aaron's back is giving him big troubles these days and with the help from Denis, the oil cooler is reinstalled.   A gallon of oil here is very expensive, 45,000 pesos ($22.50) so Aaron advertised on the cruisers net this morning that we needed discarded oil.  No need to put the good stuff in since it is coming right back out.  Our deck was full of oil jugs by 10am. Cruisers are a helpful lot. Aaron changes the oil three more times and then the engine is ran with our fingers crossed.  A check on the oil finds no water!  We believe that Aaron has solved the problem.  He's my hero!

December 11th - 14th     Time to Chill Out

It's time for a change of pace. We have been reuniting with good friends and going out to restaurants almost every night that our pocketbook is screaming.  And the water in this bay is so nasty that barnacles and crud attach to the bottom of boats rather quickly.  Plus, being around a city, the boat gets filthy with grime and soot.  We gotta get out of here!  We up anchor and motor the 20 miles back out to the Bay of Cholon where we relax, take swims, clean the boat; top to bottom, and recheck the oil on the  main.  No water residue, we be happy. By way of a modem and buying time on a cellphone thru Comcell, we have great internet connection.  The signal is so good that we can watch TV.

We enjoy a potluck get together on the shrimp boat called Manatee owned by Robert and Carmen, who live on top of the hill overlooking the bay.   They graciously invite all the boats in the anchorage, 10 boat in all, to bring a dish to share and cocktails and watch the sunset on the deck of Manatee.  It's a great way to meet other cruisers. 

On Sunday, December 13th, a momentous occasion, my Dad's 80th birthday, we wish him a very Happy Birthday from across the miles of sea and land all the way to Kansas, the land of OZ.

George and Melinda on s/v Southern Belle have a pair of old wooden skis, so a session of waterskiing is on today's agenda.  We have a 25 hp outboard, so George ties the ski rope to the back of our dinghy and let the fun begin.  The skiis are so old that there is no adjustment to the feet pads, so it is a bit of a challenge to keep your feet in the skiis.  All three of us take turns, and Joshua gets up on his boogie board and shows us how it's done.  Aaron stayed onboard BMA and took photos of all the participants.  The kicker was George taking a turn on the boogie board and managed to produce a full moon as he boogied on by BMA.

On Monday, it was a dinghy trip to the little town of Baru.  With Sonny and Kay in the lead, followed by us then George, Melinda and Josh, we wove our way thru mangroves across the waters of the bay and within 15 minutes we were tied up to the public dock.  It's a scruffy and dusty little place.  As we walk down the dirt street, some homes are wooden and falling apart, some are made of concrete and painted up pretty, and some are abandoned.  The main industry is fishing and thru the years the fishing grounds are gradually being depleted of fish.  There are a couple of tiendas selling the basic stuff, an internet cafe amazingly, and a bakery.  We passed an open air wooden structure that housed many roosters tied by one leg to a beam or other structures. There must of been about two dozen roosters. Sonny explained that these were fighting cocks, a source of gambling and entertainment.  No thanks.

  We have lunch at the only restaurant in town.  The cervesas were cold and the food service slow; really slow.  But, hey, we were in no hurry and enjoyed the lively conversation around the table.  The comida is the el typico, chicken, rice, and a small salad with a small bowl of soup for starters all for 7000 pesos or $3.50.  The beers were .50 cents.   

December 15th - Dec 20th   Carousing in Cartagena   

We must return to Cartagena sadly, so that we can get some projects done with the hiring help of local Cartagenians.  On Wednesday morning, Sven, the German electronics guru, spends three hours onboard trying to figure out why our autopilot will not hold course going east.  It will function properly any other direction but heading east.  What is up with that? The NMEA is looked at, the display unit too.  Sven disconnects the wire block that sends data to the autopilot.  Now, it is totally isolated and we shall see if it works properly on our next trip out to Cholon.  He confirms that our depth sounder display unit is dead (Aaron accidently wired the GPS antenna to the depth sounder and it fried the electronics).  Bummer, since it is an expensive item to replace, but doesn't have to be replaced any time soon.  Our GPS chartplotter has a depth sounder.  This is why redundancy on a boat is key.

Next worker is Renzon who is a canvas repairer.  We hired him before and found his work holding up to the suns rays, which means he uses good thread.  I have three projects for him; the dinghy cover needs repair, the sun cover needs new leather trim around the shroud holes and in several places new stitching, and our mizzen sail cover doesn't fit around the boom properly since we installed the new boom wings last time we were here in March.  He returns on Friday at noon with the mended dinghy cover and puts it back on, perfect fit.  The sun cover is put back up and we are happy with the new leather around the shrouds.  Unfortunately, Renzon couldn't find any dark navy blue sunbrella, so our mizzen cover stays the same, too small.  Oh well, 2 out of three ain't bad and the price is right.  He charges 80,000 pesos and I gladly give him 90,000 pesos as a tip for fast service.

Our favorite hard worker is Creison who we call and ask if he can do some work for us on Thursday and Friday polishing and waxing the boat hull.  It's good to see him and he proudly exclaims that Lina, his wife, is expecting their third child in May.  So, he must work, work, work.  And Blow Me Away is looking good after his care.

On Thursday afternoon we head over to Bocagrande, the penisula just to the north where the skyline looks like Miami.  Lots of tourists, lots of hotels, and a large beach.  It's a happening place.  I have a doctors appointment with a dermatologist, Dr. Covo, a pleasant young man who speaks some English at the Centro Medico.  I called two days ago and made this appointment.   He checks my whole body for any suspicious growths or abnormal moles.  I do have the ability to freckle and new moles pop up on a regular basis.  I try to stay out of the sun as much as possible, cover up when I am sunbound and wear a hat and sunscreen, of course.  But, living on a boat it is impossible to be good all the time!  He is concerned about some areas on my chest, so he decides to give me the nitro treatment.  I have never had this done before.  The nurse comes in with a cannister that a whisp of smoke is arising from and sets it on his desk.  It's a handheld piece of equipment that quickly dispenses a spray of nitro on the offending area.  It burns, burns, burns.  Thank goodness I had a rum and coke, a tall one, before coming!  I just want this to be over.  He burns 10 lesions and tells me to stay out of the water and sun for the next 10 days; gives me a prescription for a healing ointment and sends me on my way.  For this instantaneous treatment the cost is $200,000 pesos or $100. 

Afterwards, Julie and Tom on s/v Gris Gris, meet us at their favorite place for happy hour in Bocagrande, the Las Ollas Cartagenera, where they know the bartender, Armondo, who is in his 30's and has a pencil thin mustache.  He greets them with a friendly hello and us as well.  We sit outside at a table and our waiter is ...Mr. Fantastic.  Aaron replies that he is the "hunka hunka of burnin love"!  The best way to drink cheaply in Cartagena is to buy a bottle.  The setups are free.  We order a bottle of rum, cokes and lots of ice.  This is the best medicine Julie explains to forget the burning sensation that is still going on on my chest!  Our dinner experience is at the Carbon de Palo, a great place for ribs and steak.  The beef tenderloin that I order is so tender and juicy and Aaron's ribs are delicious.

On Friday night, a bunch of us gather at the best place to have a drink in the Old Walled city, Whiskeria  Zorba on the plaza Fernardo de Madrid.  Tables are set up for our group outside the bar in the street close to the sidewalk.  Our bartender, Alfredo, is so busy for the next three hours, as our group manages to order bottle after bottle of rum, bottles of coke and lots of ice.  The salty sailor drinkers are Hank and Betsy on s/v Equinox, George, Melinda, and Joshua on s/v Southern Belle, Lenny and Sue on s/v Windancer, Julie and Tom on s/v Gris Gris and Captain Jack and Dennis on s/v Fantasy.  A surprise appearance was Pam and Denis on s/v Glide who were busy all day preparing to leave for San Blas, Panama early tomorrow morning.   We all ordered pizzas from the little pizzeria place in the square called Pizza in the Parque and they delivered the italian pies right to our table.  It was a fun night and we all did our best in spreading the holiday cheer!

Saturday, the 19th, the girls go shopping at Makro, a big box store, similiar to Sam's club.  Melinda and Julie join me and we split the taxi ride coming and going.  Among other items purchased,  I find a 12 pound turkey that will be our Christmas dinner.  We have missed our turkey sandwiches that we usually enjoy the day after Thanksgiving.  I just hope it fits into our small oven!

Sunday, the 20th   Not So Interim arrives

Maria Elena and Bert on s/v Not So Interim arrived this morning from Aruba.  We met them 3 years ago and haven't seen them since we parted ways.  We invite them over for a champagne brunch to celebrate her birthday.  With the mimosas flowing, we catch up on all that we have done these past few years. 

Later, Paul on s/v LizzyJean, stops by and is wanting to know if his battery charger is working.  Aaron gives him advice and they hook it up to our batteries and it doesn't charge. Maybe Sven can fix it. He invites us over for dinner to his apartment that he has been renting that overlooks the anchorage, a reprieve from the boatlife, and we meet his girlfriend, Natalia who is originally from Medellin.  She works in the health care industry and speaks very good English.

Monday, the 21st    Back to the Bay of Cholon to Chill

We get around early because there is usually no wind in the mornings and by 9am we are at the fuel dock filling up with diesel.   The fueldock is located on the river, just past Club de Pesca marina and the wind can funnel thru there causing havoc in trying to tie up.  Diesel is 6194 pesos a gallon, and gasoline is 7640 pesos.  A gallon of oil is 45,000 pesos. Our total bill with tip 800,000 pesos.  Back at anchor, we have lunch at our favorite Chinese restaurant and then make a last minute run to the grocery store.  By 1:15pm, we are on the move towards the peacefulness of the bay.  This anchorage is a busy busy place, with the radio chatter on Channel 68 and the water taxis whizzing by our boat at full speed, we are once again needing to be tranquilo.  It takes an hour and 15 minutes to reach Boca Chica channel and once thru we make the turn westward. The wind is favorable and the seas are down as we roll out the roller furling jib and make 7 knots to our destination.  By 415pm, we are once again anchored in our favorite spot, close to s/v Valentina.  The social activities begin at once, as Helen and Joe on s/v DejaVu, come by and invite us to the 5pm dinghy drift.  A dinghy drift is where everyone meets up in their dinghies, tie them altogether, and pass around appetizers, as we float with the wind or current.  There are 7 dinghies in this drift as we watch the sun go down.

December 22nd   Boat Chores

I wake up and it is so calm here on the bay.  Not a breath of wind.  The parrots and peacocks ashore start their morning choir practice and a couple of burros join in on the chorus.  I'll trade nature sounds any day over the city sounds. Time to tidy up the boat after being in and around the dirty city of Cartagena.  Out comes the washing machine and I set out to wash and dry three loads.  Meanwhile, Aaron takes the rinse water from the washing machine and uses it to wash the decks.  Blow Me Away gets a good scrubbing and some follow up on the stainless steel polishing where a couple of places were missed.   She's looking good and what do you know?  As evening approaches, there are rain clouds in the distance.  It's the same theory as when you wash your car, it will rain.  Lo and behold, it's the same law on boats.  It begins to rain and it hasn't rained here in months!   We don't mind getting wet as we dinghy over to s/v Southern Belle to retrieve some bread and a dozen eggs that I spaced out on my grocery run yesterday!  They arrived earlier in the day from Cartagena and we invite them over for dinner. 

December 23rd     Change of Lifestyle Anniversary     

On this day back in 1996, we bought Blow Me Away in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida.  I can't believe that it has been over 13 years since I signed the biggest check I have ever signed before for the down payment!  We are still happy boatowners, she has proven herself worthy.  And we have done many upgrades over the years to make our cruising lifestyle a pleasant one.  The many memories we have made are indeed treasured ones.  And the cruisers we have met along our journey are instant friends, and if we are lucky, become good friends who stay in touch.  The many places we have visited and the many many more we have yet to see.

Sonny and Kay along with Jay and Barb on s/v Jupiter Smile invite us to make the dinghy trip over to Playa Blanca, a popular beach.  Many of the tourist boat tours come here for a stop.  The umbrella huts line the beach;  blocking the hot sun come with chairs and some with tables.  They are for rent, prices being negotiable.  Vendors come around selling necklaces, food or massages and are very hard of hearing.  The words  "no gracias" have to be repeated many times before they leave.  We enjoy a couple of beers and enjoy watching the beach scenery and activity.

Southern Belle, invites everyone over for a milk punch party and carolling at 5pm.  Milk punch we find out is made with ice cream, milk and rum.  It's very tasty and a potent brew that makes one think they have a beautiful voice when singing Christmas carols!  George strums along on his guitar and Sonny plays his harmonica as we sing our favorite holiday songs.  We get creative and make up a nautical 12 days of Christmas song; starting with the first day of Christmas my true love gave to me.....a motor for my little dinghy.  The highlight of the night is when George read "A Cajun Night Before Christmas".  It is a New Orleans version of the original that includes alligators and lots of creole seasoning.

December 24th    The Eve before Christmas

Elves were busy in the galley today preparing for the Christmas feast.  Aaron with merry anticipation of eating mouth watering turkey, soothingly oiled and seasoned the turkey before sliding it into the oven. 

Louis and Julie on s/v Simpatica arrived from Panama, in the afternoon with a new crew member, Heather, and a couple from Poland who are traveling thru South America.  The reunion was full of Christmas cheer.  Simpatica rafter up along side Blow Me Away and with disco blaring from the speakers, jello shots for everyone, we soon settled down and enjoyed a lobster creole dinner, I pitched in a lettuce salad and with the LizzyJean sailors joining us, we spread some more jolly and folly. S/V LizzyJean, Rob, Paul, and his brother Phillip, are crossing to Cartagena as soon as the weather window opens up.  Later in the evening, a dinghy full of Christmas carolers comes by, two couples from Britain, one dressed up as Santa, who won't leave until they get a cup of good cheer!  We decide to join them, LizzyJean, Simpatica, and us in our dinghies, and off we go to visit Valentina.  Sonny and Kay come out on deck and pass out jello shots after we sing our hearts out.  On to Southern Belle where George and Melinda hand out a box of wine for all to share.  George is then asked to repeat his performance of a "Cajun Night Before Christmas".     

 Merry Christmas To You!

At noon all the boats in the anchorage have been invited up to the Crow's Nest to enjoy Christmas dinner with friends.  Everyone brings a dish to share and plates and silverware and your favorite bevvie.  Robert, originally from California and his mate, Carmen, a local Cartagenian, live in this huge house overlooking the bay.  They also own m/v Manatee, an old shrimping vessel, that is anchored in the bay.  Robert comes down in his jeep to pick up the heavy bags loaded with the food and those who need a lift up the hill.  Aaron and I climb gladly climb aboard.  Crow's Nest is the name of their home and it is still in the construction phase.  There are only two rooms completed, their bedroom on the main level and a spare bedroom on the ground floor.  All the floors are concrete and as we enter the home after climbing some stairs, there is a huge table in the middle where we place the food.  That is the only piece of furniture.  Walking out on the balcony, the view is breathtaking!  You are able to see the entire bay and about 15 miles further.

The Christmas feast is served buffet style and it's all delicious.  We brought some of our turkey with gravy and a pecan pie.  The two best things to eat as far as I am concerned!  Everyone takes a seat either in the few chairs that are available or on the concrete floor on the balcony.  Afterwards, there is a "white elephant" exhange.  This is the opportunity to get rid of something that has been on your boat that is never used.  We brought two gifts, an old microcassette audio recorder that I used to record weather broadcasts and a retractable clothesline.  Everyone places their wrapped gifts on the table and draws a number from the hat.  The first number picks a gift, the second number can either choose the first person's gift or a gift from the table, and on and on it goes.  George picks a rusty knife set that he gets to keep and Sonny picks a colorful dress that eventually is passed on to Kate on s/v Hello World!  Aaron chooses the RCA plugs and I choose a set of lobster wine glasses to go with our lobster hat!  It's all great fun.  We head back to our boat for a swim to cool off.  Tonight we watch the movie, "A Christmas Story", about Ralphie wanting a Red Ryder BB gun for Christmas.  It's our tradition every Christmas.  And in regards to that movie, Jessica, our daughter, emails us and tells us that our granddaughter, Drew, who is 6, stuck her tongue to the lightpole!  They had just watched that movie a couple of days ago.  The first persons she thought of was us as they laughed at their crying child.

December 28th  We are taking a Vacation from our Vacation!

To celebrate our 20th anniversary, which is on the 30th, we decide to rent a hotel room for a week in the old walled city of Cartagena and "take a vacation from our vacation".  We leave Blow Me Away at anchor in the Bay of Cholon in the good hands of Robert and friends looking after her.  We hitch a ride into the city on s/v Southern Belle, our first catamaran ride.  It's a whole different feeling aboard as the waves hit the pontoons at different intervals and time.   A washing machine comes to mind.   Once in the city, our schedule becomes a busy one, as we spend time with friends, eating out at some of the best restaurants, seeing the sights, attending a concert of the International Music Festival, celebrating our anniversary and the new year and enjoying the coolness of air conditioning in our hotel room.

Wishing all of you a very Happy New Year!  Here's to 2010!